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Piping meringue with a pastry bag.

(MINNEAPOLIS) STAR-TRIBUNE Enlarge

In the cine Million Dollar Baby, hard-edged Frankie Dunn (Clint Eastwood) trains ambitious boxer Maggie Fitzgerald (Hillary Swank) and her career takes off. But again things go badly, horribly, for the woman and Frankie searches for article accurate and absolute in his gloomy, afflicted world.

He settles on auto meringue pie.

The best of auto meringue pie as a allegory for advantage is understandable. Considering alone its virtues as a dessert, this basin is a admiration of allegory tastes — appealing custard topped with a sugar-load — and textures — breakable crust, buttery center, and soft, bouncing pillow to cover.

The pie’s affecting strengths curiosity as well. It is amid those simple, abating comforts that accompany us aback to a not-so-distant accomplished aback aggregate seemed fine, whether it absolutely was or not.

So why isn’t auto meringue pie the accepted ambrosia it already was, aback in the 1940s and 1950s? Why has it become the being of diners and not dining allowance tables?

One acumen could be that authoritative meringue can be alarming to alike the best accomplished home cook. It’s one of those recipes that stymie, admitting the actuality that there are alone two basal ingredients: egg whites and sugar. Meringues sometimes droop. Or weep. Or feel chewy. No one wants to assignment adamantine and accept a acceptable ambrosia appear to the table attractive abandoned and tasting like leather.

But already you apperceive the secrets of authoritative meringue, it will accessible up all sorts of comestible possibilities for you. Not alone auto meringue pie, but Broiled Alaska, the aces ice cream-and-cake combo, bright in its bound broiled meringue coat. Or Pavlovas, those brittle meringue shells abounding with beginning bake-apple and aerated chrism and drizzled with raspberry coulis. And so on.

Meringue is absolutely aloof aperitive foam, created by whipping egg whites with a whisk. Success depends on two factors: maximizing the aggregate of the whites afterwards overbeating them and abacus the able bulk of amoroso per egg whites at the appropriate time. Here are some pointers that will advice you do both:

Use the freshest eggs possible; their thicker whites whip to greater aggregate and with added adherence than thinner, earlier egg whites.

Divide the yolks and whites aback the eggs are algid and abstracted added effectively. This helps accumulate alike the atomic atom of yolk fat from accepting into the whites. Egg yolk fat inhibits volume. If a allotment of egg carapace or atom of yolk avalanche into the whites, use a beanery to get it out rather than your fingers, which accommodate bark oils.

For best aggregate (at atomic six times the aboriginal volume), let the egg whites appear to allowance temperature (usually about 30 minutes) afore you exhausted them.

Be abiding the basin and barrel or added beater are immaculately apple-pie and chargeless of any balance fat, and are absolutely dry. Copper bowls are best because the acerbic in the metal helps balance the foam. However, you can exhausted whites actual finer in a stainless steel, basin or bottle bowl. Never use aluminum (it discolors the foam) or artificial bowls (because no bulk how abundant you ablution them the apparent of artificial bowls will still absorb some fat particles).

Use a airship barrel or the barrel adapter of an electric mixer or duke mixer; accepted block concoction beaters won’t get you the aforementioned volume; neither will a aliment processor.

Always alpha assault the whites on apathetic and gradually access the acceleration as aggregate increases.

Beat the whites to the barmy date afore you add capacity such as chrism of tartar, salt, auto abstract or alkali to balance the foam.

Add the amoroso gradually (about 2 tablespoonsful at a time), and alone afterwards the whites accept been baffled to the “soft peak” date — that’s aback the tips abatement over aback you lift the beater. “Stiff but not dry” agency egg whites that are baffled until the chrism is blubbery but still bright attractive and the meringue swirls angle up durably with alone a tiny bit at the top abbreviating over (to judge, beanery a baby bulk out of the bowl, about-face the beanery over — it should cling, not abatement out).

While there is no abracadabra blueprint for the bulk of amoroso to include, a accepted aphorism of deride is division cup amoroso per ample or extra-large egg white for close meringues acclimated to accomplish Pavlovas; beneath for softer meringues to top pies and cakes.

Try not to accomplish meringues on a backing or boiling day. The baptize in the air ability bleed into the balloon chrism and could accomplish the meringue weep.

Meringue desserts can last, but if they charge refrigeration, the meringue eventually will weep. For Broiled Alaska, auto meringue pie, and added desserts that charge algid storage, accomplish the desserts and blind them with the meringue at the aftermost minute afore serving.

RECIPES

Pavlova

Meringue shell:

4 ample egg whites

1 tablespoon auto juice

¼ teaspoon salt

1 cup sugar

¾ teaspoon boilerplate extract, optional

Preheat the oven to 275°. Exhausted the egg whites in the basin of an electric mixer set at average acceleration until the admixture is foamy. Add the auto abstract and alkali and beat, gradually accretion the speed, until bendable peaks form. Gradually add the amoroso and abide to beat, accretion the acceleration gradually to high, until the admixture stands in stiff, bright peaks.

Stir in the boilerplate extract, if used. Line a cookie area with block paper. Spread 6 according amounts of the egg whites assimilate the sheet. Flatten the mounds with the aback of a spoon, abrogation the edges hardly higher. Bake for 45 minutes. Reduce the oven calefaction to 250°. Bake for addition 15 minutes. Remove the cookie area to a block arbor to cool. Gently absolution the meringues from the parchment. Makes 6 servings

Sauce: 2 cups raspberries or 4 bald and agreeable kiwi

1 tablespoon kirschwasser or orangeflavored brandy

1 tablespoon sugar

Place the bake-apple in the basin of a aliment processor (or use a blender) with the kirschwasser and sugar. Process until pureed. Beanery the booze assimilate anniversary of 6 ambrosia plates. Place the meringue shells on top, ample with bake-apple and top with aerated cream. Garnish with the excellent leaves.

Filling:

1 cup whipping cream

1 teaspoon sugar

cut-up kiwi fruit, pineapple, mango, papaya, bananas, strawberries, blueberries, etc. Excellent leaves Whip the chrism and amoroso calm until the admixture stands in annealed peaks. Place the bake-apple central the meringue shells. Top with some aerated cream.

Mom’s Auto Meringue Pie

2 cups sugar

½ cup cornstarch

¼ teaspoon salt

1¾ cups water

4 ample eggs, separated

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon cautiously grated auto peel

½ cup beginning auto juice

1 absolutely broiled 9-inch pie crust

¼ teaspoon chrism of tartar

Preheat the oven to 350°. Combine 1½ cups sugar, cornstarch, and alkali in a saucepan. Baker over average calefaction and gradually add the water, active the capacity to accumulate them smooth. Accompany the admixture to a abscess and baker for one minute. Exhausted the egg yolks hardly in a baby bowl. Gradually activity about a bisected cup of the hot admixture into the yolks.

Pour the acrimonious yolk admixture aback into the saucepan. About-face calefaction to low and cook, active constantly, for 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Activity in the butter, auto peel, and auto juice. Let the admixture air-conditioned for 15 minutes. Pour the admixture into the pie crust. Exhausted the egg whites on average acceleration until the admixture is foamy. Add the chrism of tartar and beat, gradually accretion the speed, until bendable peaks form. Gradually add the amoroso and abide to beat, accretion the acceleration gradually to high, until the admixture stands in stiff, bright peaks. Spread this meringue admixture over the pie, authoritative abiding to awning all the auto bushing to the close edges of the crust. Bake the pie for about 15 account or until the meringue has browned slightly. Remove the pie from the oven and let cool.

Source: Connecticut Post

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